Poet and philosopher, Mevlana Jelaleddin Rumi is among the most revered figures in Turkish Islamic mysticism, be it outside the mainstream. He was a true visionary, seeking unity with God to better serve his fellow human beings. His works are still read today and after an earlier ban, dervishes are whirling again, seeking blessings from above to share with all on Earth.
Mevlana Rumi, Author of the Mesveni
Mevlana was born in 1207 in the town of Balkh, in present day Afghanistan. Fearing a Mongol invasion, the family left when he was a young child and eventually settled in Anatolia. There, Mevlana’s father, a reputed scholar and teacher, continued to gain respect. Later, Mevlana followed in his father’s footsteps, teaching in schools, using his influence to secure justice for the poor and preaching tolerance and love. When he passed away, people of all faiths attended his funeral.
Mevlana wrote a number of poems, sermons and letters but best known among his works is the Mesveni. There he outlined his thoughts on universal love and religious tolerance but also related in story form events at the time. The Mesveni remains one of the most important works on Sufism to this day.
Whirling Dervishes and Sema Ritual
It is said that Mevlana began to whirl one day when he heard the tapping of a goldsmith’s hammer. Others followed and the Order set up after his death pursued the sema ritual, or whirling dance. Once banned by Ataturk, the sema is now an integral part of Turkish cultural and religious heritage and protected by UNESCO.
For whirling dervishes, the sema is a spiritual trance-like journey to attain greater perfection before returning to earth to help others. The seven part ritual begins with a drum beat, symbolising the order for creation to ‘be’, and the sound of a reed flute to draw the divine breath. Dervishes greet each other’s souls in front of a red fleece, the colour of the sunset when Mevlana passed away. Shedding their black cloaks and all worldly attachments, draped in white shrouds and tall hats shaped like tombstones, they perform four ritual dances, always revolving in the same direction, in tune with all creation from atoms to stars. The sema concludes with readings from the Koran and prayers.
Dervishes can lead a secular life, but they must offer 1001 days of service and they are required to spend a period of time in solitude.
Mevlana Mausoleum and Museum in Konya
Set in Konya, on the border of Cappadocia, the Mevlana Museum greets you with a fragrant rose garden, courtyards and fountains and three halls inside the main building for holy books, rituals and several mausoleums. Pride of place goes to Mevlana’s own mausoleum, covered in green satin with turbans on top and gold leaf calligraphy. A blue-green dome rises 25 metres directly above the tomb.
The Semahane, or sema room, displays musical instruments, prayer beads and various artifacts from Rumi Mevlana. More exhibits, including prayer rugs and manuscripts, can be seen in the Mescit, kitchen and dervish cells.
Source: 'Mevlana' by Dr Naci Bakirci.
Solange Hando - I am a travel writer, editor and photographer, contributing to a range of publications in the UK and worldwide.
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