- Asian Fashion from Indonesia - Solange Hando
From batik to ikat and songket, textiles are an integral part of Indonesia’s culture, keeping alive the ancient weaving and dyeing techniques handed down through generations. Today’s designers are stepping on to the world stage, enhancing the traditional oriental dress with a bold contemporary twist.
Indonesian textiles continue to play an important role in rituals and ceremonies while competing with the best in Asian fashion.
Batik, Indonesian Designer Fabric for Top Asian Fashion
Indonesian batik is an artistic tradition where dyes are applied one at a time while the rest of the fabric is protected with wax. In ancient times, patterns reflected the wearer’s rank, with indigo and brown colours produced by natural dyes.
Today batik tulis remains a luxury hand–crafted item, sometimes enhanced with gold leaf, while bright batik cap or print can be mass produced for the young and tourist market, thriving in Bali. Widely accepted as business and formal dress, batik has long been a symbol of national identity but declined for some time in favour of western dress. Indonesian designers such as Iwan Tirta and Josephine Obin sparked a fabulous revival in recent decades, with stunning creations where tradition and innovation go hand in hand.
Dress, shirt and ceremonial sash are common items but batik has found its place in myriad accessories, soft furnishings, wall hangings and paintings. Indonesian batik was granted World Heritage status in 2009.
Ikat Traditions
Ikat is another highly-skilled technique used in Indonesia. The designer outlines the pattern with charcoal, threads are tied accordingly into bundles then resist-dyed, one colour at a time. The process can take months, even years to complete. The technique may be applied to warp, weft or both when it is known as double ikat. The result is vibrant colours and designs, characterised by a feathered edge due to the movement of the loom.
Flores and other Lesser Sunda islands produce fine ikat cloth with floral or animal patterns and natural dyes from nut oils, roots and leaves. Most valuable pieces are for ceremonial or religious use but visitors to Indonesia will find attractive throws, bags and tablecloths.
Songket and Oriental Dress for Special Occasions
Akin to brocade with a lovely shimmer, Songket is a luxurious hand-woven fabric of cotton or silk entwined with gold and silver threads. Once the privilege of royalty, it comes into its own in wedding ceremonies but also has its place in home décor, fashion bags and art work. It’s a time consuming craft, often involving a whole family where every member has a specific task. Popular motifs are based on the natural world.
High quality songket come from Kalimantan, Sulawesi, Sumatra, especially around Minangkabau, Lombok and Bali where tourists can buy attractive sarongs and shoulder wraps. Songkets are a work of art so expect prices to reflect quality.
Solange Hando - I am a travel writer, editor and photographer, contributing to a range of publications in the UK and worldwide.
