Taiwan tea production began in the 17th century when Dutch rulers discovered wild tea bushes in the mountains. Some 200 years later, the first Oolong tea was exported to the States by an English merchant and the trade flourished for many years.
Today as in mainland China, India or Sri Lanka, tea is an integral part of local culture, from the myriad tea houses scattered across the land to aboriginal plantations rolling through the mist on lush mountain slopes. Green or black, most of Taiwan’s Chinese tea is produced by small farmers, at times grouped in cooperatives and some creating their own brands or specialising in organic tea.
Oolong, Alishan and Dong Ding Tea
Oolong tea in Taiwan comes in different varieties, most famous Dong Ding Oolong named after the southern mountains where it grows. Also highly praised is Oolong from Alishan which owes its quality to clear water from nearby springs in the Tsou homeland. Others include Bai Hao Oolong, or Oriental Pearl, and Guan Yin, the Iron Goddess of Mercy.
Long rooted in Chinese culture, all tea is made from a single plant species, camellia sinensis, but each brand owes its own characteristics to the way it is processed and the altitude where it grows. High mountain tea is said to be sweeter, with a rich aroma and colour.
Chinese Tea in Taiwan, Green, Black and Organic Tea
Tea is a year round crop in Taiwan, with spring and summer promising the finest flavours. Green tea is not fermented and claims a pale golden colour while black tea is fully fermented. In between come Baozhong from the northern mountains, and Kuanyin, the Iron Buddha, from Muzzhu and the north coast, with 10 to 60% fermentation.
Green and lightly fermented teas are favoured by the Taiwanese and said to boost the immune and digestive systems, lower cholesterol and prevent blood clots. Organic tea means hard work for the farmers but ensures increased health benefits for all who drink it.
Tea Houses in Taiwan
Meeting friends in a tea house is a way of life in Taiwan, whether it’s a modern venue in Taipei, a traditional meeting place with garden and fish pond, a Buddhist monastery or a small aboriginal plantation with fabulous mountain views.
Tea drinking involves a special ritual which cannot be rushed. First rinse cups and tea pot with boiling water, add tea leaves, rinse briskly to release the flavour, top up and brew for about three minutes, less for green tea, pour in a jug and serve. Appreciate colour and fragrance before sipping. On a small farm, the ritual is usually performed by the master of the house and the tea may be served with peaches or plums, straight from the trees, all to be enjoyed at a leisurely pace.
Whatever the brand or the process, sharing tea is a most endearing aspect of Taiwanese culture, the traditional and healthy way to express friendship and hospitality, while sampling a few local delicacies. It is an integral part of every festival, including the Chinese New Year.
Solange Hando - I am a travel writer, editor and photographer, contributing to a range of publications in the UK and worldwide.
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