Handed down through generations, as in neighbouring India, the textile tradition remains at the heart of Bhutanese life, often a necessity or a source of income, but also a matter of family pride and heirloom. Creating beautiful things is considered a pious act and quality more important than time.
In the past, fabric could be used as payment for tax or goods. Today, it’s a showcase for Bhutan’s unique culture and skills, most dazzling at festival time when families and friends parade in their finest attire. The world is beginning to notice and as young Bhutanese designers embrace change in their own way, the stage is set for a new look in Asian fashion.
Bhutan Weaving and Fabric
Weaving is one of the Thirteen Arts and Crafts at the core of Bhutanese culture. It is practised across the kingdom but among the top weaving districts are the central valleys of Bumthang, known for striped woollen cloth, and Eastern Bhutan where Lhuentse, ancestral home of the royal family, produces some of the finest work.
Cotton, wool, silk, hemp and nettle fibres may be coloured with a mix of natural and chemical dyes. Most weaving is done by women using back-strap looms, at home or in small workshops. Bright decorative patterns are created by weaving extra warps and wefts into the fabric, with the most intricate pieces taking up to a year to complete. Bhutanese fabric ranges from utilitarian items to the fabulous dresses worn for religious festivals or the precious cloth commissioned for royalty and important guests.
Gho and Kira, the Traditional Dress at the Heart of Bhutan Culture
Bhutanese are required to wear their traditional dress in public places, as a sign of unity in this small but ethnically diverse kingdom. Every day clothes are made of cotton or wool, plain, striped or checked, while special occasions bring out silk, bright colours and intricate patterns, and for the men a ceremonial sash of raw silk draped over the left shoulder.Gho is the traditional knee length garment for men, with wide cuffs and a belt tied to form a pocket at the waist, and embroidered felt boots for top officials and events.
The women’s dress or kira is worn over a blouse. It’s a large rectangular piece of fabric, folded and held in place with a tight belt and shoulder clasp to create an ankle-length dress. A short silk jacket and an embroidered scarf over the left shoulder complete the picture on important occasions.
Bhutan Designer Fashion
As long as it doesn't clash with tradition, Bhutan welcomes new ideas and the world of fashion is no exception. Grouped under the banner of Mawongpa, meaning future, a young generation of Bhutanese fashion designers is learning to combine traditional fabric with quality tailoring and new designs. Colours follow seasonal trends, contemporary designs creep in but continue to reflect elements of Bhutanese culture, be it religion or nature. Many see it as the perfect fusion of old and new.
It’s good news for traditional village weavers and for the young fashion-conscious Bhutanese and expats looking for dress or fabric in Thimphu’s Handicrafts Emporium. There is potential growth on the international market, as endorsed by the fashion pages of Marie-Claire which featured Bhutan for its 'luxurious fabrics and timeless patterns'.
Solange Hando - I am a travel writer, editor and photographer, contributing to a range of publications in the UK and worldwide.
Join the Conversation