The road to Kandy is a long ribbon of hairpin bends climbing to the great loop of the Mahaweli river. There at 490 metres, among green hills and tea plantations, the hill capital of Sri Lanka greets visitors with the gleaming Temple of the Tooth, palace and shrines and a lovely lake created by the last king.
Blessed by a cool climate and top attractions for tourists and pilgrims, Kandy offers a pleasant break from the beach and a genuine insight into local traditions.
Kandy, Temple of the Tooth
Crowned with pagoda roofs at the water’s edge, the Temple of the Tooth is named after the Lord Buddha’s relic smuggled out of India in the 4th century. Wars have been fought over it and the precious tooth is considered a symbol of Sri Lankan sovereignty.
Every day crowds pour into the richly decorated temple to pay their respects at the shrine framed by elephant tusks. The relic is enclosed in a series of gold and silver caskets and jasmine garlands and lotus bloom are laid on the altar from dawn to dusk ,among silent prayers and devotions. Votive lamps flicker all around and the smell of incense lingers in the air.
The Lord Buddha's relic can be only be viewed on special occasions.
Kandy, Perehara Elephant Festival
During the full moon in late July or early August, the hill town of Kandy celebrates the Perehara, a ten day long festival when the precious tooth casket is paraded through the streets in a fabulous torch lit procession. Dozens of elephants draped in brocade and lights accompany the royal elephant, trained to perfection to carry the casket on his back.
There are dancers and drummers, flute players, acrobats, jugglers, wheels of fire and whips to fend off evil spirits. Pilgrims and onlookers from all ranks and ages travel from across the island and beyond to witness this colourful event.
On the last day, the casket is returned to the temple, accompanied by elders in Kandyan costumes.
Kandy, Lanka’s Best Botanical Gardens
Kandy Peradeniya Botanical Gardens were first laid out in the 14th century for the pleasure of a local Queen. Today the gardens boast over 4000 species of plants and trees. Favourites include orchids and bamboo, the Great Palm Avenue and the Circle of Trees planted by the world’s VIPs and bordered by hibiscus and bougainvillea.
Other prized specimens are the Talipot palms, which produce the world’s largest cluster of flowers, once in their life, the snake creepers with tangled roots and a Java fig tree spreading over 1600m² of lawn. There are water lilies on the lake, fruit bats in the palms and spice gardens fragrant with cardamom and cloves.
Enclosed by the river on three sides, these are Sri Lanka’s best Botanical Gardens and the largest on the island, perfect for a quiet picnic or an afternoon stroll and a treat for botanists.
Solange Hando - I am a travel writer, editor and photographer, contributing to a range of publications in the UK and worldwide.
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