As seat of the Mughal Empire from the late 16th century onwards, Agra was embellished and extended by successive rulers, with the greatest contributions by Akbar the Great, Jahangir and Sha Jahan. Each emperor favoured a different architectural style, austere and secular under Akbar, romantic and sensuous under his successors. Around Agra, the Mughals greatest legacy includes three World Heritage sites, the Agra Fort and Taj Mahal displaying a blend of Hindu and Persian art and the ghost city of Fatehpur Sikri.
Agra can be visited on a day trip from Delhi, though one should expect an early start, or on the way to Rajasthan, allowing at least a couple of nights in one of its luxury hotels with a view.
See the Taj Mahal, India’s Top Attraction
Nothing prepares you for your first glimpse of this iconic monument, its sheer size and splendour totally hidden until you walk through the second gate.
- Enjoy the view from the top of the entrance steps, the perfect symmetry, the dome mirrored in the water, the slender minarets and the red sandstone buildings either side.
- Marvel at the marble decorations, stone inlay and carvings inscribed with verses of the Koran, on the magnificent gates and around the base of the shrine.
- Step inside to set eyes on the beautiful cenotaphs of Sha Jahan and his beloved wife Mumtaz, for whom he built the monument, and the fine marble screen enclosure.
- Wander through the gardens filled with bird song, looking across to the Yamuna river. Linger as long as you can to see the Taj changing according to the light, floating as if by magic in the early morning mist, dazzling white in the heat of the day, glowing softly in the setting sun.
Explore Agra Fort
Built by Akbar the Great, the red sandstone Agra fort is an impressive sight, both fortress and palace, with a double line of defensive walls and once boasting around 500 buildings.
- See the audience halls and palaces, in white marble or red sandstone, the mosques and the Grape Garden divided in geometric patterns.
- Look out for the favourite haunts of the Royal Harem, from the marble Khas Mahal to the Gem Mosque or the Sheesh Mahal, the dressing room inlaid with tiny mirrors.
- Reflect in the beautiful Jasmine Tower, all marble filigree and semi-precious stones, looking out to the river. There you can gaze at the Taj Mahal in the distance, just as Emperor Sha Jahan did for seven years, when he was kept under house arrest by his son.
Fatehpur Sikri, the Ghost City near Agra, India
Built by Akbar on a holy spot, in gratitude for the birth of a son, the new capital was soon abandoned for lack of drinking water, today a ghost city, baked by the sun, haunted by chipmunks, parakeets and Brahmini eagles.
- See the Jama Masjid mosque, the largest building, and the tomb of Sheikh Saleem Chishti, the Sufi saint who granted Akbar his fatherhood wish, and the Hiran Minar, the tower covering the remains of the emperor’s favourite elephant.
- Take a break under the ashok trees or by the water tank, feel the past all around, then head for the Diwan E Khas, where the Emperor held religious debates, the Golden Palace with its wall paintings and the Turkish Sultana House, home of Akbar’s chief wife, and famous for its miniature carvings.
- Complete the visit by exiting through the impressive Victory Gate, sitting atop a steep flight of steps and said to be the grandest and tallest in India.
Solange Hando - I am a travel writer, editor and photographer, contributing to a range of publications in the UK and worldwide.
Join the Conversation